This time, i was visiting Aurangabad in Maharashtra, India. It is a big city with significant cultural heritage. This city boasts of the heritage in all religions. The illustrous Ajanta Cave paintings, and magnificient Ellora rock cut Temples are just epitome of the Indian Architectural skills long before the Mongloids or even the Europeans showed us the revised version.
To reach Aurangabad, there are 2 routes from Mumbai.
1. Mumbai Nashik Aurangabad
2. Mumbai Pune Aurangabad.
Without any doubt, the Mumbai-Pune(NH4)-Aurangabad(SH60) route scores once again. I however started via Nashik and returned via Pune route.
We started at around 6 Am in the morning, and reached Aurangabad at 2 PM. It is nearly 370 kms from Mumbai. We decided to stay at a hotel in the MIDC suburbs of Aurangabad at Bandharpur. It was an excellent hotel for mid-budget pricing.
Since it was in outskirts, and near to the tourist spots, it was a good place to put. We could avoid the city bustle all the time.
Ellora Caves (20 kms) and Daulatabad fort(7 kms) are near to Aurangabad. Ajanta caves are however 100 kms away and would require 1 entire day for covering it.
So we decided to cover Ellora in the first day.We reached there at 3 30 PM. And we were awestruck. the pictures will explain why. The temple compound has been carved out 1 single rock or i would say Hill. They started from the top of the hill, and chiselled their way down creating one of the most marvellous engineering feat. Ellora caves has 3 different religions being represented, Hinduism, Buddhism and Jainism. The most elaborate caves are the Hindu caves(no 16 being the best).
No words can describe the thrill that an eye would perceive in the presence of the huge rock pillars or 2-storeyed temples.
Since we reached quite late, we could only cover the hindu caves. The Buddhist and Jain caves are also worth a visit. So make sure you reach there by at least 11 AM.
The local guides would say, that one shoudl cover Daulatabad fort in the morning from 9-11 AM and reserve the rest for Ellora.
Anyways, the next day we ventured out for Ajanta Caves. That was a good 100 kms run from Aurangabad, and interspred with small hiccups on the road. At Ajanta, you are not allowed to take your car anywher near the caves. you have to park a good 4 kms away from the caves, and take the MTDC tourism shuttle to the Caves. It is a very wise decision, given the fragile nature of the caves and the caring attitude that visitors have towards the relics.
While Ellora was carved with top down approach, Ajanta was carved from the sides. Hence these are truly caves decorated with heavy sculptures and exquisite paintings. Since the caves have only 1 opening (the door), it was always a mystery how could the artisans paint the ceiling and wall in such low light. Here comes handy another well known principle of Light reflection. The centre of the cave (Hall actually) had a water chamber which use to reflect light from outside to inside the corners of the chambers.
The Ajanta Caves must be visited during monsoons. The innumerbale waterfalls and cascades rolling down along the cave pathway and in the valley below, makes it an attractive picnic spot too. There is a another point on the opposite hill from where the Ajanta caves was originally spotted and hence discovered. The hilly descent down into the valley offers exhilarating view of caves infront.
On return from Ajanta (by 6 PM), we decided to visit Bibi-ka-makbara , the masoleum by Aurangazeb in apparently the fond memories of the wife, or so to say. It seems to be more like a attempt to copy the Taj Mahal of Agra. In fact it looks like a squeezed version of the original. The layout is same as that of Taj mahal full with fountain path in the front and the garden behind. Bibi-ka-makbara remains open till 10 PM, so it is ok to visit this place in the evening and enjoy the sunset.
The next day we, visited Daulatabad fort. This is an unique fort sitting atop a single rock (or hillock), whose sides are shaved off vertically making it impossible to impregnate. The maze (at the inner circle of the fort) is called Andheri. This maze is so dark and full of bats, that it makes a scary adventure to explore. There are guides available who will take through the maze using a fire torch (Mashal). And then suddenly in midst of the maze, he will light out the torch. In midst of pitch darkness, you are nothing but blind. I wonder how did the soldiers in those days managed ot manouver in that maze. The maze is interesting as it has sudden opening which open into void (in short into the moat below), and the stairs are uneven and slanting at places, making it difficult to climb. Then there are places, where hot cauldron of boiling oil was poured down onto enemy soldiers from the top.
The royal courtroom is way above on the top of the hill. The stairway leading to that hall is 1000 in count, and we were all very tired by the time we hit around 750. However the view of the sorrounding hills and the city faraway is splendid.
This fort is the only place in India to host the temple of Bharat Mata (India Goddess).